The first IFSC World Cup of the year kicked off with the Boulder Qualifier in Keqiao, China, at the stunning purpose-built Shaoxing Keqiao Yangshan Climbing Center.
Opening its doors for the Hangzhou 2022 Asian Games, a few lucky climbers already have a feel for the wall from this experience, but for the vast majority it is the first time they will attempt a boulder in the new arena.
First up was the women’s 60, and it will come as no surprise that Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret topped her group with five problems. In an Olympic year, the current, and only, women’s Olympic gold medalist has a “start as you want to go on” attitude.
Janja said: βBefore the season starts it’s always a mystery and always a bit nervous because I know I train hard in the winter but you never know what the other girls are going to do and how hard they trained. Today I wasn’t nervous at all, I was very excited to start the season and enjoying all the boulders and very focused, mentally and having a lot of fun.”
Garnbret shares top spot with Japan’s Nonaka Miho and Australia’s Oceania Mackenzie, who also hit all five boulders, but this time both in Group B.
Mackenzie said: βI would say today’s round was a bit easier, especially in Group B. Coming into this competition I felt good about my preparation, but the first of the season is always a bit scary as you don’t know how you’re going to do and how everyone else is climbing. I feel good after the round and I really went up with confidence, so I’m happy.”
Sitting alone in fourth place, Great Britain’s Erin McNeice is in the semi-finals topping the four Group A boulders and the Brit is keen to continue: “I’m really excited for tomorrow. The blocks today were very good. It was a bit nerve wracking as it’s the first of the season but I’m really excited to get another chance to ride tomorrow.
βI prefer two days of climbing in a row. I think I’d be bored if I had a rest day, I’ve already had two and I don’t want another one.”
Team B had six climbers clear all five problems, with home favorite Luo Zhilu among the climbers joining Nonaka and Mackenzie in a packed house.
In Group A things were a little more difficult with only Garnbret and McNeice scoring over three peaks. Some of the climbers who reached the semi-finals from the group were American Kyra Condie and Jessica Pilz of Austria, who is very focused on an event in 2024, making a very relaxed start to the season.
Pils said: “I think compared to other seasons I’m not as nervous because it’s still not very important. I take this competition as training and see how my training goes.
βMy big event is in a few months [the Olympic Games] so I have a different schedule to get in shape compared to some other athletes, so I’m not too nervous actually.”
To hear more from IFSC World Cup Keqiao athletes click here
For full results click here