Lee Dohyun appeared to be in complete shock after taking first overall in the men’s Boulder & Lead sport climbing at Olympic qualifying series Shanghai on Sunday (May 18).
The Republic of Korea athlete, who finished third at the IFSC Asian Qualifiers last November, started the day by securing fourth place in the eight-man Boulder final. He looked calm and composed afterwards, knowing his strongest event was yet to come.
Less than an hour later, Lee began his rise to the Lead final in front of a capacity crowd at Huangpu Riverside OQS Urban Park, with hundreds more watching from the back room and on the big screen.
He took the first part of the wall with his usual speed and accuracy before hitting the incline. With the midday heat starting to set in, the climbing prodigy showed incredible arm strength to hang on to the smallest jug, sweat dripping from his hands.
The fast movements of the first section were replaced by measured performances, which drew huge gasps and roars of approval from a crowd that seemed to feel every tense moment with him.
As he neared the top, the arena MC urged the crowd to increase his support, who clapped in unison as he climbed to the top with one last burst of energy. Lee moved away from the wall smiling and shaking his head in disbelief.
Second place went to the defending Olympian Alberto Gineswho finished sixth in Boulder before coming back to become the only other athlete besides Lee to overcome Lead trouble.
The Spaniard roared with delight at the top and looked noticeably exhausted as he was hoisted up.
Third place overall went to the five-time world champion Adam Odrawho made light work of the Boulder runs to take first place, before a frustrating slide at the top of the Lead incline saw him drop back.