The Michelin Guide unveiled its annual list of the best French restaurants on Monday, praising the “cultural dynamism” of a new generation of chefs, though again only honoring a handful of women.
After a long period of resting on the laurels of its culinary reputation, France has seen a boom in new establishments over the past decade or so, absorbing international ideas and increasingly focusing on sustainability.
Two restaurants achieved the highest pinnacle of three stars at the annual ceremony, held this year in the city of Tours in the Loire Valley: Le Gabriel in Paris and La Table du Castellet in the southern region of Provence.
A total of 62 restaurants were awarded at least one star — most joining the Michelin ranks for the first time, including 23 that had been open for less than a year.
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Espadon at the Paris Ritz won one star for chef Eugenie Beziat’s innovative African-inspired cooking.
Reflecting the continued male dominance of the industry, Beziat was one of only six women to win a star.
“I hope I’m here to inspire (other women) but I don’t have the answers. Everyone has a place in my kitchen as long as they work hard,” she told AFP.
Speaking on stage, the director of the Michelin Guide, Gwendal Poullennec, acknowledged: βThere are very few women at the head of kitchens, despite the fact that there are more and more of them in cookery schools and restaurant groups.
“It’s a reality we deplore,” he said, adding that he remains optimistic about “strong initiatives to promote talented young women.”
“Age doesn’t matter”
La Table du Castellet, which focuses on local seafood and vegetables, went straight to the top in its first year under Fabien Ferre. At just 35, he is now the youngest chef in France with three stars.
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“Age doesn’t matter. Life is made of failures. I’ve had them and yet I’m here to crown… you have to fight,” a tearful Feret told AFP shortly after winning the three-star chef’s white.
The Michelin Guide celebrated the “perfectly executed creative dishes” and “deep and powerful sauces”.
Le Gabriel is an exclusive restaurant near the Champs-ΓlysΓ©es in Paris, inspired by the Brittany of its head chef Jerome Banctel, where the dinner menu starts at 278 euros.
Michelin praised Banctel’s “cosmopolitan alchemical skills”, singling out his lobster cooked with binchotan (charcoal commonly used in Japanese cooking), almond praline and peach with verbena.
“All these years of unrewarded work and moments of self-doubt,” a choked-up Bucktel told AFP, adding that he was looking forward to the tears and screams of joy when he returned to the kitchen on Tuesday morning.
There are now 30 restaurants with three stars in France, 75 with two and 534 with one.
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Many were honored Monday for their sustainable, locally sourced cuisine.
“French gastronomy is no longer stuck in the past,” Poulenec told AFP before the ceremony. “There is a very clear emphasis on ‘terroirs’ — the local agricultural fabric.”
Relegations
Michelin announced the demotions two weeks ago — done in advance to avoid any bitterness at the ceremony.
A total of 28 lost a star this year, including one three-star institution.
The annual ceremony has toured France since the Covid-19 pandemic, with the last two taking place in Strasbourg and Cognac.
This reflects the spread of France’s best restaurants beyond Paris, with local restaurants representing most of the new stars in recent years.
About 40 small towns and villages are located with a Michelin star restaurant in the new edition.
Among top chefs, the Michelin Guide is as feared and criticized as it is respected.
Its anonymous judges can make or break reputations, with very tangible effects on restaurants’ fragile bottom lines.
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Tire-making brothers Andre and Edouard Michelin launched their first guide in 1900 to encourage motorists to discover restaurants in France.
It has since expanded to 45 destinations worldwide and will launch a similar hotel guide this year.
Source: AFP