Brown-covered slopes shimmer in the sunlight with white blossoms, framed by a sweeping sweep of the turquoise waters of Lake Kivu, the country’s largest lake, surrounded by mountains. Rwanda, the small landlocked country in East Africa, is most famous for its population of mountain gorillas. But Rwanda also impresses you with its beautiful landscapes, rugged beauty and fertile volcanic land with lush banana plants, which are also perfect for growing coffee and tea.
Although most people associate the country with the tragic genocide of 1994, Rwanda is today one of Africa’s fastest growing economies, known for cleanliness, security and above all for its mountain gorillas. Travel through this land of winding roads, endless green hills, clear lakes, grasslands and rainforests, staying at luxury safari lodges and delightful lakeside hotels is just a side treat. Enjoy a tryst with nature in Rwanda’s four national parks – Volcanoes National Park, Akagera National Park, Nyungwe National Park and Gishwati-Mukura National Park. Each of these parks has a distinct ecosystem and terrain and unique flora and fauna.
While we recommend a walk on the wild side, when in Rwanda, start by checking into the five-star Kigali Serena Hotel, just a five-minute walk from the CBD, with plush rooms and suites decorated in bright color palettes that reflect a Pan-African heritage with sophisticated furnishings, swimming pool, spa and restaurants. (Room rates start from around Rs 27,000 per night, http://www.serenahotels.com/kigali)
Spend a few days in the capital Kigali to delve into its history and culture. A visit to the Kigali Genocide Memorial is a poignant but important reference to the country’s tragic past. The past may be bleak, but Kigali’s green spaces are a useful option. Relax at Nyamdungu Eco Park, spread over 120 hectares of medicinal garden, ponds and trails, which is a restored urban wetland with rich bird life and cycling paths. Follow this with a visit to the village of Umusambi on the outskirts, where rescued gray-headed cranes find a unique sanctuary.
For an immersive arts and crafts experience, head to the giant Ki-mironko market, which sells everything from fruits and vegetables to vibrant textiles and household goods. Make a dress from local kitenge cloth on express orders, buy colorful baskets and Imigongo art panels in geometric designs from cow dung and ash before dyeing them. Of course, nothing beats the beautiful sunsets from the top of Mount Kigali for a great panoramic view of the city.
To further satiate your soul, enjoy the exquisite food offering at award-winning Meza Malonga restaurant by award-winning chef Dieuveil Malonga. He visited 48 African countries to curate this special menu (https://mezamalonga.com).
The isolated mountain gorilla…
Drive to Kinigi (105 km from Kigali) to visit Volcanoes National Park and check in at the luxurious Virunga Inn Resort and Spa, with rich birdlife in the garden, delicious food and large doubles with king-size beds, butler service , African art and balconies overlooking the impressive, sweeping wilderness. (Rooms cost around Rs 80,000 per night, including non-safari meals).
Another great option is the ultra-luxury Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, a top-rated classic safari lodge located at the foot of Volcanoes National Park with outstanding views of the Karisimbi Volcanoes. With six charming stone cottages, two luxurious four-poster king-size suites and a spacious family unit with two separate bedrooms, accommodation options are plentiful. Meals at Sabyinyo are designed with sustainability in mind, using healthy recipes that use produce from their organic gardens. (Room rates start at around $1,500 (Rs 1.25 lakh per person per night, all inclusive except for gorilla permits.)
The Park, named after the dormant volcanoes, is surrounded by lush tropical forests that make up the Virunga mountain range. This is Rwanda’s most famous national park, and also the most patrolled park in the world, in addition to being the oldest on the continent. It also, along with Congo and Uganda, serves as the only habitat in the world for the endangered mountain gorillas.
Gorilla trekking is a once-in-a-lifetime experience ($1500 (Rs 1.25 lakh per person), where proceeds go towards the conservation and protection of endangered gorillas. There are 12 common gorilla families that one is allowed to visit , with only 96 gorilla trekking permits for groups of 8, issued each day for one hour, to minimize impact on the gorillas Trek through knotted vines, dense African redwoods, to meet the Kwitonda gorilla family and. Spending almost an hour with them in the wild is definitely one of the top life-changing experiences of my life, apart from the gorillas, the park is also home to golden monkeys and ancient caves.
NOTE TO THE WISE: Appropriate clothing with garters, waterproof coats, boots and other gear is essential for this trip.
The vulture culture
If gorilla trekking is an essential part of the Rwandan experience, so is a visit to the Gorilla Guardian’s Village (a cultural village that rehabilitates the national park’s reformed poachers) to try your hand at archery, sampling the local beer, banana beer, and watching a performance by Intore dancers (the energetic local folk dance that involves jumping high and twirling in the air.
Entrance fee: $35 (Rs 2,917)
Calm time, Lake Kivus
After the hectic gorilla tracking, it’s time to cool your heels at Karongi Resort. The luxurious Hotel Cleo Lake Kivu, on a hill overlooking the lake, is a decadent but delightful choice. With luxurious doubles decorated with bright African fabrics and artwork, as well as balconies and bathtubs overlooking the lake and gourmet meals, you’ll soon realize that Rwanda’s allure extends far beyond the lure of its dense greenery. . (Cost is over Rs 35,000 per night for a double, http://cleohotel)
This huge lake, shared by both Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, stretches for 89 km and is Rwanda’s largest lake. Enjoy a leisurely boat ride to enjoy the cool breeze and waters that are a deep shade of green, with small volcanic islands, surrounded by terraced hillsides with macadamia, coffee and banana plantations. Resort towns with beaches and a relaxed atmosphere line the shores of the lake and are a popular getaway destination for the locals of this landlocked country.
In a cafe upstairs
Rwanda produces some of the best Arabica Bourbon coffees in the world with a silky creamy body and hints of lemon and orange blossom and caramel. Take a tour of Boneza Coffee in Kinunu, on the shores of Lake Kivu, 165 km from Rwanda’s capital Kigali, where coffee is grown at high altitudes of 4,000 to 6,000 feet. Get in on some of the behind-the-scenes action of your cuppa Joe – from picking the beans to soaking, washing, drying, sorting, to the final roasting and dusting of the beans. The coffee tasting session at the end – where your guide shows you how to roast beans the traditional way, in a clay pot over hot coals – is the icing on the cake. The coffee, as expected, is divine.
COST: The cafe tour takes about an hour and a half and costs around Rs 2,000.
The canopy at Nyungwe
Drive to Nyungwe National Park, Rwanda’s newest UNESCO site of ancient rainforests – 200 km from Kigali – and check in to the luxurious One and Only Nyungwe House nestled comfortably within lush Gisakura tea plantations, on the edge of Nyungwe National Park. Visit the large luxury villas with open fireplaces, verandas and large bathtubs in five impressive wooden villas, secluded in wonderfully unspoiled surroundings on a working tea estate. Hear birdsong or enjoy farm-to-table food that caters to your daily cravings and dietary preferences. Relax with regionally inspired beauty treatments such as African potatoes and Marula oil in their luxurious spa.
(Cost is over Rs 1.80 lakh per night for a double, http://www.oneandonlyresorts.com/nyungwe-house)
HAVE TO DO: A trek on the Igishigishigi Trail from the Visitor Center, passing giant teak and mahogany trees, ferns and orchids, to the Canopy Walkway, which is a steel suspension bridge, connected by platforms, above the cloud-clad treetops , offering an ideal vantage point to spot golden monkeys or birds such as blue turacos, papas and sunbirds. Just watch out for sudden showers and carry an umbrella or raincoat, just in case.
Join the tea party
Nyungwe is also surrounded by lush green tea estates that act as a buffer zone. Walk through the emerald green tea estates at the edge of the forest to see a colony of black and white colobus monkeys. Or take a tea tour with IVOMO, a community tourism social enterprise that empowers tea pickers and their families. The misty tea estates in Gisakura, with their immaculate rows of tea plants, are the perfect learning ground to hone your leaf-picking skills. pick them tenderly, gathering them in baskets strapped to your back while interacting with local women. Don’t forget to try Dawa, which means medicine in Swahili, and is a ginger tea made with black tea mixed with ginger, honey and lime. It’s soothing to pick me up.
COST: The IVOMO Tea Tour costs USD 30 (approx Rs 2,500) per person