From leather tutus to unstructured knitwear, the mini dress is the focus of JW Anderson’s spring-summer 2025 collection, Jonathan Anderson’s label, presented on Sunday at London Fashion Week.
Under the glass roof of Old Billingsgate, a former fish market in London, the Northern Irish designer experimented with the form, fabric and color of the humble mini dress, playing with the potential of a garment often relegated to the wardrobe staple “little black dress”. .
Also artistic director of LVMH group’s up-and-coming Spanish house Loewe, Anderson revisited the classics in his latest collection, adding sweater sleeves or giant knits to simple white or navy dresses.
Some models wore summer dresses in blue satin and pink sequins, but more looked prepared for a chilly British summer, borrowing chunky knits and leather from the winter wardrobe.
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Dance-ready models strutted down the runway in luxe tutus and leotards in black, brown and khaki leather, while others wore mini and maxi versions of the balloon skirt, which is making a comeback since spring.
Dripping with nostalgia for the 90s and early 2000s, Londoner Sinead Gorey’s latest collection was a throwback to the ‘great British dance’, with the catwalk on a basketball court adorned with sequin garlands and complete with a disco ball.
In her latest collection, Gorey successfully references British culture without relying on obvious emblems as she has in the past with the Union Jack.
Characteristically subversive, Gorey’s prom queen usurped the ‘prom anti-heroine’ in the show, showing off corsets and outfit-breaking miniskirts with tie detailing and tartan prints.
“She’s the prom outcast, missing the archetypal prom dress. In fact, she probably won’t even go to the prom — only the after-party,” Gorey said of the collection.
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Returning the summer word ‘brat’ to its original meaning, the models sported punk-inspired hairstyles, diamond-encrusted accessories and confused phone headphones that are part of Gorey’s ‘phonecore’ tech and fashion aesthetic.
As y2k trends rekindle, the collection’s t-shirt mini dresses, three-quarter length leggings and bubblegum pink, knee-high Converse shoes felt familiar, aided by Gorey’s balloon skirt and flirty ribbons.
However, with fast-changing social media trends and digital saturation, the collection also felt wistful, with the show notes declaring “house parties, Facebook albums and an altogether tighter relationship with social media” as part of a “of a bygone era”. “.
Source: AFP