Creative Africa Nexus 2023, which took place at the Intra-Africa Trade Fair (IATF) in Cairo, offered visitors a unique opportunity to interact with some of the continent’s most creative minds today. CANEX 2023 was a celebration of Africa, culture, writing, gastronomy, film and fashion. One of the areas that saw significant foot traffic throughout the event was the British Council stand β which showcased fashion designers, supported by the organisation’s Creative DNA programme.
The African fashion scene is vibrant, diverse and innovative. This is reflected in the continent’s rich cultural heritage and contemporary reality. From the colorful prints of West Africa to the elegant drapes of East Africa, from the bold patterns of North Africa to the minimalist chic of South Africa, African fashion designers create stunning pieces that appeal to both local and global audiences.
However, despite the abundance of talent and creativity on the continent, African fashion designers face challenges in transitioning from passion and art to building a successful business. This is where the British Council’s Creative DNA program comes in. This is a program specifically designed to accelerate fashion businesses by nurturing the skills, knowledge and networks of designers in Africa and the UK.
Following the success of the Creative DNA program in Kenya β where three cohorts have been completed to date β it has since expanded to Ethiopia, Senegal and Uganda. The program is now set to launch in more countries in sub-Saharan Africa next year, including Nigeria, South Africa, Zimbabwe and Ghana, bringing the opportunities Creative DNA presents to more African fashion designers.
Achieving market access
“Looking at the fashion industry in Africa, it’s one of the three growth areas in the cultural and creative economies,” explained Farai Bayai Ncube, the British Council’s regional arts director for sub-Saharan Africa, based in Harare. “However, our research showed that to achieve its full potential, intervention in policy, education and, most importantly, market access was required.”
This last element, ‘market access’, is what the British Council hoped to achieve at CANEX by bringing 24 designers from across the continent and giving them a platform to connect with buyers and other creators. After all, the program is about more than just supporting creatives. it’s about empowering them to build a living from their passion.
“This is what success looks like for us. Where do you sell!β Brenda Fashugba, head of arts and regional lead for the creative economy, sub-Saharan Africa, at the British Council pointed out, βSometimes exposure β it takes a while to translate. But being here, seeing the networking and business happening in real time, it’s exciting to see the success of these very creative individuals.”
Thula Sindi, the South African founder of Africa Rise, reiterated the lack of market access as a challenge facing creatives. “Access to markets is really the challenge of how to monetize our real skills and our real talents.” He praised the Creative DNA program and initiatives like CANEX that not only showcase Africa’s talent but also showcase them as viable businesses. “It’s good that they’re starting to see us as the kind of great assets that we can be as creatives because honestly, we really, really are.”
Supporting alternative fashion
In addition to providing a great opportunity to expand the reach of African designers, the program aims to support alternative fashion. βWe work with young designers from the grassroots, from marginalized communities, who are talented and push the boundaries to be able to bring this alternative fashion and feel,β Ncube told us.
One of these designers is Ethiopian Betselot Zewge. She founded Zemenay, Ethiopia’s first plus size and plus size fashion brand. βI express and tell my stories to the world. Creative DNA has helped me, not just to represent an Ethiopian voice, but to make sure the African voice is heard.”
CANEX enjoys a strong reputation for convening a comprehensive range of financial and non-financial tools to enhance trade and investment in Africa’s creative sector. It is widely recognized as a unique platform for collaboration, investment, partnerships and inspiration, bringing together diverse creative sectors to facilitate growth and innovation.
Egyptian siblings and co-founders of Meroe, Sarah and Moustafa Dawood, spoke about how the showcase offered them the opportunity to broaden their horizons. βWe see different designers from different parts of the continent. And we are amazed, we have such a rich culture in so many different ways. It’s very inspiring,” Sarah explained.
One of the main objectives of the IATF 2023 event is to promote intra-African trade. For the fashion industry, one of the key aspects of this is to change the perception of the ‘Made in Africa’ brand. Showcasing the quality and creativity of African designers at showcases like CANEX is key to achieving this.
βWe need to change the mindset that African products are not luxury or African products are not well-made,β commented Sandi Owusu, creative director of Ghanaian brand Talensi. However, he seemed inspired by the atmosphere of IATF 2023: βI feel there are a lot of opportunities here because people are embracing African culture even more: our fabrics, our dyes and our handicrafts. I think there’s a market out there.”
While African markets are important to some designers, several have more transcontinental ambitions. One such designer is Rahwa Zeru, founder and creative director of Rahwa, an ethical and sustainable brand from Ethiopia. doors that the Creative DNA Program can open, adding that “I think I’ll be at Portugal Fashion Week… I mean, I’m not sure I didn’t apply, but I see there’s a positive path ahead.”
Building this trust is in itself a success for the Creative DNA program.
“We are excited to support these talented designers through the Creative DNA program, giving them a platform to showcase their creativity and innovation to a global audience,” said Ncube. “By nurturing emerging talent and promoting sustainable fashion practices, we are contributing to the vibrant growth of Africa’s fashion industry.”